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Squash, Yellow Crookneck
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Cucurbita pepo

A favorite for over 150 years, this classic, easy-to-grow, heirloom bush summer squash produces abundant white-fleshed fruits that are famously more flavorful than other summer squash types. Use a knife to cut fruit from the plant to avoid breaking the slender necks.

Calendar Days to Harvest: 50

01068 Pack, Squash, Yellow Crookneck
20 seeds $ 3.49
  • Heirloom (Open Pollinated)
  • Size: 3 -4 feet bush
  • Hardiness: Tender Annual
  • Easy to Grow: Yes
  • Sun: Full
  • Water: Moderate
  • Seed Planting Depth: 1.00"
  • Days to Germination: 7-12 days
  • Plant spacing within a row: 12"-24"
Start From Seed: Detailed instructions for direct seeding, or starting seeds indoors and transplanting.
Squash are most commonly direct seeded, although transplanting is possible in short season areas. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-85°F, but seeds will germinate at temperatures as low as 60°F. Direct seed 2-3 weeks after the last spring frost when weather is warm and settled. Plant seed 1 inch deep, 3 seeds grouped together every 18-24 inches, allowing 24-36 inches between rows for squash; or 24-36 inches apart and 36-60 inches between rows for pumpkins. Thin to one plant per spot. To start indoors, fill 4 inch pots with a sterile seed staring mix. Plant 2 seeds per pot and thin to one plant by snipping off the weaker seedling at the soil level. Harden-off seedlings for 5–7 days prior to transplanting. Squash do not like having their roots disturbed, so transplant 3–4 week old seedlings outside carefully after the last frost.
Growing Conditions: Growing seasons, soil types, water and fertility requirements.
Squash and pumpkins are frost sensitive, heat loving crops. They grow best on well drained, fertile soils with a pH between 6.0-7.5. Supply consistent moisture with drip irrigation to reduce mildew and other foliar diseases. For winter squash and pumpkins, reduce watering as fruits near maturity.
Pest Prevention: Organic solutions to common problems.
Practice 3 year crop rotations among all Cucurbit family crops (cucumbers, melons and squash). Foliar diseases such as Powdery and Downy Mildew, Alternaria Blight, and Angular Leaf Spot can be minimized by using drip irrigation and mulching to minimize splash-dispersal of spores. Spray young seedlings with insecticidal soap, pyrethrins and neem oil, or cover with floating row cover, to prevent cucumber beetle damage and the bacterial wilts they can vector, but uncover plants during flowering for pollination. Control aphids to prevent mosaic virus. Squash Vine Borers can be ‘surgically’ removed from the stems. At the first sign of wilt, look for the sawdust-like ‘frass’ at the entry hole and cut parallel to the stem to extract and crush the worm. Use a twist tie to loosely seal the wound, bury the stem, and hope the plant survives. See our merchandise section for related products.
Harvest: Is it ready yet? When to harvest and how to store your garden produce.
Summer Squash: Harvest when fruit is 6-8 inches long by cutting from the plant with a knife. Pick frequently and remove all oversized fruit to encourage additional fruit production. Pumpkins: Cut from the vines leaving a 3-4 inch long stem when the fruits have turned orange and the skin has hardened. Winter Squash: Harvest when vines have begun to die back and fruit has reached its full size and final color. Cut fruit from vines leaving a 1-2 inch stem for good storage. Store at 50-55°F in a dry place. Bring in before the first frost to avoid chilling damage that reduces storability.
4.5 based on 2 reviews

Vigorous. Prolific. Delicious.

by 4663676 on 6/5/2014 11:08:39 PM

I'm in Zone 8 just N. of San Antonio. We had bizarre hot/cold spring weather and these plants tolerated the extremes as well as four days of pelting rain. I direct seeded on April 15th in plastic grow bags and in a circular modified keyhole garden that I usually water in the center. I mulched around all plants once they were established. Twice I fed with fish/seaweed emulsion. I started harvesting around May 30th. All are happy and producing in mid 90-degree weather. One, at the moment, has 10 squash in various stages of growth PLUS blossoms. Occasionally a leaf will yellow or get damaged. I simply prune it off and the plant produces more. Plants in the ground are producing more heavily than those in the bags but those in the bags are loaded with blossoms. Maybe they are lagging which may be to my benefit, like a staggered planting. Squash vine borers (SVB) entered 3 before I noticed but hit the nearby zucchini harder. I saved 1 plant (read 'Pest Prevention' under the Grow Guide tab above) and have 10 remaining - more than enough for my family of 3. I intend to share as well as dehydrate the extra (probably blanching first.) The fruit is quick to mature, firm, and nutty with a sweet tinge. They store well in my fridge and cook quickly. When sauteed with other veggies I add them toward the end. I especially love them with carmelized onions (the kind without added sugar) or cooked with zucchini and eggs. Will I plant these again? Absolutely!


by 5035392 on 2/24/2015 6:08:39 PM

High germination rate. I had to treat plants for fungus but that's not unusual with squash (I still wish this variety had some mildew resistance). I planted in two-week intervals last spring so my family could enjoy fruit all summer. Plants were prolific in fruit-production and we still managed to eat all the fruit before I set any back for winter. The fruit was delicious and nutty. We ate most of the fruit raw, munched on slices and cubed for salads.

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