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Market Growers > From the Field > Field Report: The Local Connection
by Micaela Colley, Bulk Seed Representative
 A growing appreciation for local, seasonal, organic food is linking urban and farming communities, building a new vision of culinary quality, and supporting small farmers with premium prices and lower distribution costs. Selling to restaurants and through farmer's markets are two forms of locally-based agriculture that promote public awareness of farming issues and the value of sustaining local food systems. For many small and beginning farms, these local sales are the key to economic sustainability. For chefs and market customers, farm fresh produce is a reminder of just how good fresh food tastes. The number of farmers markets nationally is steadily growing with a 110% increase from 1994 to 2004 according to a USDA, AMS report. Along with this movement, several culinary and farming organizations have emerged that support local farmers by linking them with chefs and consumers. Organizations such as the Chef's Collaborative and Slow Food exalt the value of farm fresh foods. The Portland Oregon chapter of Chef's Collaborative along with Eco-Trust, a non-profit that supports local food economies, has started a program called Farmer-Chef. The program includes an annual interactive farmer-chef conference and the publication of a direct buyer's guide through which chefs can find information about local growers, and farmers can find local produce buyers (see links below). These and other programs are growing nationwide reflecting the increasing support for local farmers.
At Seeds of Change we recognize the importance of supporting local food systems and providing marketing and information support for organic farmers. In our variety trialing program we work with organic farmers and chefs who have years of experience selling and buying locally. Following are some tips they and others have offered for selling at farmers markets and to restaurants.
Flavor
 Chefs and farmers market customers keep coming back for the flavor. Direct markets offer an opportunity to grow a wide diversity of varieties, including flavorful selections that might not handle well when shipping long distances, but can easily be delivered locally. Offering taste samples, both to farmers' market customers and chefs is the key to getting them hooked. Trialing and selecting flavorful varieties to grow is the key to providing the tastiest produce. When asked what she looks for in produce, Chef Jesse Cool, of Cool Eatz foods in Palo Alto, CA, says, "taste, taste, taste—bring in (to the restaurant) a sample of what you're growing and even include a zip-lock of what you've cooked".
Seasonality
Produce is always best in the peak of season, but once customers get hooked on a variety they may come to expect its continual availability. Jerry Brownrigg, of Heirloom Organics Farm in Watsonville, CA, emphasizes the importance of educating chefs about the seasonality of produce and the constraints of farming so that there won't be missed expectations, "Chefs need to understand the flow of products, and factors affecting you (the farmer)—the chef has more control over factors involved and must understand the limitations the farmer faces." When offering restaurants special, unique, seasonal varieties as a point of differentiation, the transient availability can increase the value of the produce. Cool suggests, "Study the restaurant's menu, think of ways to infuse your crops on to their menu and replace any out of season vegetables with seasonal alternatives", for example, offering orach in the summer as an alternative to spinach (which would be out of season). Arran Stark, chef of Andina restaurant in Portland, OR, suggests extending the length of seasons as much as possible with repeated plantings and the use of greenhouses. Arran comments, "it is great to have everything available in the peak of summer, but then October comes and there may only be Kale and squash at the market. I'd love to have more variety available early and late season".
Availability
Joe Shirmer of Dirty Girl Produce in Santa Cruz, CA, suggests faxing availability updates to chefs before the farmers market and taking pre-market orders. Then the chef can drop by the market to pick up orders and the grower can plan ahead to increase their harvest. Annie Sommerville, chef of Greens Restaurant in San Francisco, CA, say's she likes getting faxes from her farmers that include tips about the produce and notices of any limited availability. Annie also enjoys newsletters from farms such as Maraquita Farms in Watsonville, CA, that keep the restaurant informed about what's happening on the farm.
Diversity/Uniqueness
Many restaurants like to feature something different, creating a niche for a broad diversity of crops. Jerry suggests growing varieties and developing mixes that the customer can't get from the grocery store or food distributor such as special chicory mixes, unique vegetable varieties, or salad mixes that feature textures and colors not found in standard store-bought mesclun. Some of the most successful farmers are those that try new crops and varieties rather than planting what is currently popular that every other farmer is going to bring to market.
Presence/ Knowledge
Showing up can't be underestimated. Customers enjoy having a connection to the farmer. Jerry points out that it is important that the market salesperson, if not the farmer, is at least knowledgeable about their product, not just an employee that drives the truck, but has never seen the field. Nancy Gammon's, manager of the Watsonville, CA farmers market and owner of Four Sisters Farm in Aromas, CA, emphasizes the importance of consistency, "This means rain or shine, if you show up so will the customers". Nash Huber, of Nash's Farm in Sequim, WA, agrees stating, "You get customers trained to eat off of your farm and they come to rely on you". Presence at the market also includes enjoying and interacting with customers and as Nancy notes, "You are selling the total experience, which includes the product, an outdoor experience, meeting the grower, seeing friends." "Be happy and pleasant." she suggests, "People shop at the Farmers' Market for an outing, a pleasurable experience. We bring the country to the urban areas, and customers really love this".
Farmer Appreciation
Doing business with those that appreciate you is not only rewarding, but usually more profitable. Chris Constantino, chef of Incanto restaurant in San Francisco, CA, serves "Farmer Appreciation Dinners" where he cooks for all the farmers he buys from so that they get to experience the end product of their efforts. He sees this group of growers as a valuable part of his community. Nash say's he offers two local restaurants carte blanche on his 400 acre farm in exchange for all of his employees having access to the restaurant. This trade allows him to offer his employee's the major benefit of getting to eat out at nice restaurants, a luxury they might not otherwise have.
Cost
One of the hardest things for farmers, who sometimes think of themselves as starving artists, is to not undercut prices. Sustainability of a farm means incorporating all the costs of production. This includes delivery costs if you are dropping produce by a chef's door. It is important to teach the customer about the real value of local, organic food that is healthier for the environment than conventional food shipped across the globe. When your produce has to cost more than that at Walmart, politely explain to the customer why. And when you're able to sell at a competitive price, Arran suggests advertising your premium produce at the peak of season by sighting its competitive price.
Presentation
Visuals are important. Leaving tops on carrots and beets gives a lush, fresh-picked look. Liz Milazzo, of Green Gulch Farm in Sausalito, CA, prefers the Detroit Red Beets for market as the "exceptionally lush leaves are able to show off." Present fresh looking produce by keeping it shaded and replacing wilted items throughout the day. Jerry also suggests creating a unique look to your booth differentiating it from "just another pop-up display." Jerry's Heirloom Organics display features colorful table cloths, big straw baskets, and old-fashioned chalk boards for writing variety information and prices. When presenting produce to restaurants, Jesse Cool encourages making it easier for the kitchen by offering well trimmed, washed items. Nancy Gammon comments on her organic flowers, "I try to make by bouquets interesting and beautiful, and not copy anyone else's style. If you are true to your own style, you will do that the best."
The experiences that these farmers and chefs share come from years of growing and developing mutually supportive relationships. Though not without challenges, it is clear from listening to them that the benefits of connecting farms with their local community brings a richness worth more than a premium price.
Micaela Colley
Seeds of Change Bulk Seed Field Representative
Links:
USDA-AMS information on farmers markets. www.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets/facts.htm
Chef's Collaborative: Non-profit organization networking farmers and chefs and supporting local food systems. www.chefscollaborative.org
Farmer-Chef Connection: Program of Chef's Collaborative and Eco-trust that puts on a farmer-chef networking conference and publishes a guide to local and seasonal products for the Northwest. www.farmerchefconnection.org
Slow Foods: Worldwide program with regional chapters (convivial) promoting local, seasonal and heritage cusine. www.slowfood.com
Local Harvest: Provides information about selling to local markets and a sustainable-restaurant and farmer's market locating service. www.localharvest.org/farmers-markets
Photo caption: (top) Nash Huber discussing his market strategy. (bottom) Jesse Cool picking Seeds of Change Red Russian Kale.
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