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by Scott Vlaun
  We don't need to read the latest study to know that life has gotten more stressful for most of us. Swimming in a deluge of technology and information, sometimes it seems as if we're working harder than ever to keep our heads above water. While the organic garden can provide refuge from a hectic world, as well as stress-relieving exercise and nutrition-packed food as an antidote to the inevitable fast-food meals, it can also provide us with a gentle form of medicine to relax our mind, body, and spirit.
There are plenty of easy-to-grow plants, such as chamomile, tea basils, and mints that make relaxing infusions and other sensory delights, but none is more popular and diverse in its uses than luxurious lavender. A native of the Mediterranean, used medicinally since at least the age of the Pharos, lavender is by far the most widely cultivated herb of fragrance in the world. A mainstay of the perfume industry, which extracts the oil from thousands of tons of flowers each year, lavender is also a wonderful addition the home garden. A sturdy and attractive perennial (some hardy to zone 4) that provides forage for pollinators, lavender has many applications beyond the garden: bathing, cooking, teas, pillows, sachets, and potpourris to name a few.
What is commonly referred to as "lavender" is actually derived from two distinct types of plants: true lavenders Lavandula angustifolia, also referred to as English Lavenders, and the hybrid lavandins, which are a cross between L. angustifolia and L. latifolia which is also known as spike lavender. To add to the confusion, "French lavender" is simply English lavender that is grown in France.
The true lavenders tend to be smaller and require a little more care than the lavandins. They also produce less essential oil. For this reason, most commercial lavender oil now comes from the lavandins, which tolerate more extreme climates and produce more oil per acre. Most experts agree that the lavandins are not as good for medicinal and culinary purposes as true lavender, but they are well suited for use in the perfume and craft industries and are spectacular in the garden.
Sun, Soil, and Water Considerations
Whichever kind of lavender you choose to grow, there are a few important considerations that will help assure success. First and foremost, choose the sunniest place possible for your lavender bed and be sure that the soil will have adequate drainage. As lavender is a native to dry regions of the Mediterranean, it thrives in well-drained soils and slightly arid conditions; it will not tolerate soggy conditions. If you have heavy, wet soils it would be best to prepare a special raised bed for your lavender, with healthy additions of compost, coir fiber, and/or sharp sand for improved drainage. As lavender plants will remain productive for ten years or more, it is wise to take the time to work the soil deeply and amend accordingly. Keep transplants adequately moist while getting started. Once established, lavender is very drought tolerant, but in dry areas it will respond to irrigation with increased vigor. Be sure to allow the soil to dry out between waterings though.
Soil pH is also an important factor to consider. Lavender prefers soils with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH: so if you have acid soils, add appropriate amounts of lime and compost. Extremely alkaline soils can often be controlled with generous amounts of compost worked deeply into the soil. Preparing your beds well in advance will help amendments to incorporate into the soil and allow weed seeds to germinate and be controlled before the lavender is introduced.
Getting started
 True lavenders such as "Munstead English" can be started from seed or cutting, while lavandins are always propagated by cutting as the plants don't produce true seeds. Lavender can be started from seeds either by direct sowing or by starting in flats for transplanting at a later date. Direct seeding can be done in the spring as early as the soil can be worked; it can also be done in the fall as the seeds will benefit from a period of cold (stratification) to increase germination rates when temperatures warm. The only difficulty with direct-seeding is that often weeds will emerge before the lavender, which is commonly slow to germinate and establish itself. Sowing lavender seed in flats will frequently lead to better results and cold stratifying the seeds before sowing can often increase germination rates. See our article on germination techniques for more information on stratifying seeds.
Sow the seeds about an inch apart and no more than ¼ inch deep as light helps germination. Keep moist but not soggy. Room temperature (about 70°F) is optimal. Be patient, as lavender is unusually slow to germinate, sometimes taking up to a month to emerge from the potting mix. For this reason, it is important to use a well-drained sterile mix to prevent disease. Once the seedlings are established pot them up in four-inch containers and grow them for three months or more before moving to the garden. A well hardened-off, 5–8 inch tall seedling will have the best chance of adapting to the rigors of the garden. Transplant leaving plenty of space to insure adequate air circulation when plants mature. Space at least a foot apart for true lavender and two feet for the larger lavandins. Transplant any time up until about two months before the first fall frosts to allow the plants to get established before going dormant in winter. If you mulch young seedlings, leave a few inches around the plant for air circulation, which helps prevent damping-off disease. Once your beds are established, which might take two to three years, they should be fairly carefree with yearly dressings of compost. Mulching will help control weeds, retain moisture, and add fertility, but you might want to remove the mulch in the spring if soils remain soggy.
 If starting lavender from seed is not practical for you, lavender seedlings are widely available and can save lots of time in getting your lavender beds established and productive. The Seeds of Change "Purple Haze Lavender Seedling Collection" has proven widely popular and includes six different varieties: English lavender and a selection of lavandins including Goodwin Creek Gray, Abrialli, Grosso, White Grosso, and Provence.
Harvesting and Pruning
Lavender flowers are typically harvested in late spring through early summer depending on the area and the intended use. Once the harvest is complete or the blooms have dropped their tiny flowers, it is best to prune the plants' foliage back to about two-thirds of their size. This will help keep the plants vigorous for many years. In longer-season areas this might lead to a late-season second harvest of flowers.
While growing lavender might not have the rapid gratification of other gardening endeavors such as baby salad greens or annual cut flowers, the rewards of establishing a mature bed of lavender are immense. Whether enjoyed in the garden for its beauty and fragrance or carefully crafted into a myriad of products, your lavender bed will yield years of enjoyment and refuge from the stresses of everyday life.
Scott Vlaun
Editor
Photo captions: (1) Lavender eye pillow helps with stress relief (2) Munstead English lavender (3) Lavender seedling sampler
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