Tips for Growing Medicinal Herbs

Whether you're growing herbs for the occasional cup of mint or chamomile tea, or to stock a complete herbal apothecary, cultivating medicinal herbs can be a deeply rewarding experience. With their healing powers and attraction of beneficial insects and pollinators, these plants are of great benefit to both our health and our gardens. Many medicinals are easy to grow and use. We've assembled the following guidelines to set you on your own personal journey growing and using these time-honored, healing plants.

Preparing the Beds
Work your herb beds deeply, incorporating organic matter (compost, cover crops, etc.) and other slow release amendments such as lime, rock dust or greensand depending on your soil's needs. Seed beds should be forked and raked free of weeds, sticks and stones prior to planting. For extensive information on direct seeding see "Direct Seeding and Transplanting."

Planning and Planting: Spacing, Soils and Light
Knowing the mature plant size and appearance is helpful for the design and planting of your garden. Our catalog and website are a good resource for attaining this information. While spacing requirements differ for varieties, 10 to 12 inches apart is generally good spacing for transplants. Leave plenty of room between varieties though, to allow the plants spread. Fill in the spaces with annuals for the first year or two as your perennial varieties mature.

The amount of sun your garden receives and your soil type are two factors that help determine which plants you choose to grow. Most medicinal herbs however, can be successfully cultivated in average soils with moderate sun by following the cultural guidelines on the seedpacks. Perennial medicinal plants are best started in flats then transplanted to the garden at least 6 weeks before fall frosts to allow establishment before winter. Many medicinal herbs, such as Holy Basil, Lemon Balm, Munstead English Lavender, German Chamomile, Lemon Catnip, Feverfew, Dotted and Licorice Mint, can be grown in containers given proper nutrition, moisture and sunlight. Harvesting can be extended by moving the plants into the greenhouse or a sunny window in the fall.

Fertility and Mulching
To keep your perennials thriving, top dress the soil with an inch or so of compost in the spring and fall. Deep mulching with organic materials will help control weeds, conserve water, replenish the soil and protect root systems through the winter. Prune your plants back in the late fall or early spring to stimulate new growth. In northern climates, (zone 4 and colder) it can be beneficial to leave aerial mass through the winter and mulch deeply to prevent winter kill. Using liquid organic fertilizers such as Earth Juice and Organic Gem Fish Fertilizer is a great way to provide nutrients to perennial herb beds.

Harvesting, Drying and Storing
Medicinal plants are harvested for either their aerial parts (flowers and leaves), roots or both. A general guideline is to harvest leaves and flowers from vibrant plants that are early in the flowering stage. Harvest later in the morning after the dew has dried, but before plants begin to wilt in the sun. Some plants, such as chamomile which is typically harvested every other day for its mature flowers, can be harvested multiple times through out the season . Others, such as catnip, are generally harvested as whole stems early in the flowering stage. Early harvesting of the tops of many herbaceous perennials like Lemon Balm and Licorice Mint will stimulate flowering and increase plant volume. We like to pick tops and leaves throughout the season for invigorating fresh teas.

Medicinal herbs can be used in numerous ways including traditional tinctures, cider vinegars, compresses, poultices, elixirs, medicinal foods, ointments, salves, creams, bath herbs, foot soaks, pillows, or syrups. Many of these techniques are best learned from an experienced herbalist or by studying books such as The Complete Guide to Medicinal Herbs and Deb Soules' A Woman's Book of Herbs. Many herbs though, like most of those discussed in Deb Soule's article,Medicinal Herbs for Body, Mind, and Spirit can be harvested fresh and used to good effect in cold or warm infusions (teas). Drying and storing herbs can assure a winter's supply for when they are often most needed.

Aerial plant parts are typically dried by hanging small bunches upside down in warm, dry, and dim conditions with good air circulation. Be sure to remove dead or dying leaves before drying. Small amounts of herbs can also be successfully dried by placing them loosely in closed paper bags. (Helpful if dust is a problem.) Optimal drying temperature for most herbs is 90-100 degrees F, but they will dry in cooler temperatures as long as humidity levels are low. Some herbs, like calendula flowers which shed their petals while drying, are easier to dry on racks made of window screen.

Strip leaves and flowers from the stems as soon as the herbs are dry to the touch. If left to dry too long the leaves become brittle and lifeless. Not long enough and they might mold in storage. Depending on temperature and humidity, it might take anywhere from 4 days to 2 weeks to fully dry the plants. Store dried herbs in airtight containers in a cool, dark area.

To dry roots, slice them about 1/4 inch thick and dry on screens. A food dehydrator is a useful tool if you are drying a lot of roots, and can also be used to speed drying of aerial parts, especially in humid areas. Use care to not heat roots over 110 degrees F, (90 to100 degrees F for leaves and flowers) to retain maximum potency.

Growing herbs is one of the easiest things to do in your garden and we hope that we have provided you with a few tips to get you on your way to having an enjoyable, healthful and relaxing season, both in and out of the garden.

Erica Renaud and Scott Vlaun