From the Field, Organic On-Farm Trials 2003

I recently had the pleasure of walking a 10-acre lettuce field that was a diverse blanket of colors, textures, and shapes. I was struck once again by the limitless possibilities one species can offer. The field, in central Oregon, was lettuce grown for seed by our friend, plant breeder Frank Morton. Frank and I were accompanied by plant breeder and teacher, John Navazio, and by Seeds of Change editor and photographer Scott Vlaun.

As we walked and marveled at the various beauties, we each commented on our favorite varieties with their rich colors and sweet flavor. The discussion quickly turned to what traits are important to the market grower: "this one would hold up in a salad mix," or "that one has the deep red color growers like, to contrast their standard greens." Frank, who is currently working on developing disease resistance in lettuce, began pointing out "yes, that one is a beauty, but it doesn't hold up well to downy mildew." So begins the dance between beauty, flavor, strength, and marketability that drives a market grower's variety selection. The challenge for plant breeders and seed suppliers is to understand the grower's needs and then select or develop varieties with as many desired traits as possible. It is with this goal that we engage in on-farm trials with cooperating organic growers.

This year's Seeds of Change trials are in full swing. The first round of lettuces and brassicas are being evaluated for vigor, beauty, flavor, and marketability. The first emergence of melons and squash is soon to follow. Working with organic market growers we have the opportunity not only to test our varieties on working farms, but to gain quality feedback from the growers as well. At the same time, the growers discover valuable traits and novel varieties.

From our trials with salad growers at Heirloom Organics and County Line Produce, we're learning which of our varieties have what the baby salad industry calls "loft", the shape and texture required to keep lettuce mix from going flat and breaking down quickly. We are also including our lettuce varieties in disease-screening trials with Frank Morton and at the Salinas USDA Extension Station in California, to identify their relative disease resistance.

This fall we look forward to tasting and evaluating our best melon varieties with growers and chefs in San Francisco at an open house hosted by Greenleaf Produce, a specialty distributor that buys from local farmers and caters to the local restaurant industry. Through working with Greenleaf, we are also learning what chefs are demanding. In a recent conversation with Tom Wiley of T&D Wiley, I asked why he plants 60 acres of Bloomsdale spinach every year when there are more productive varieties on the market. "Flavor," he says. Bloomsdale has both the flavor and texture that chefs want. The super-savoyed leaves have a lot of surface area to hold dressing and stand up on a plate.

In addition to catering to chefs, growers cater to public market trends. For example several of our cooperating growers sell at the new Ferry Plaza Market on San Francisco's waterfront, and will offer produce of our varieties. Local chefs along with a vegetable savvy public, shop at the Ferry Plaza Market with an eye for the unique and refined. Varied colors and textures--including yellow beets, white carrots, purple asparagus, and variegated chicories--draw in a crowd. Increasingly aware of the flavor of many heirlooms, and the importance of genetic preservation, progressive growers are offering such treasures as old world rapinis, varietal artichokes, and heirloom tomatoes. We look forward to gaining feedback on the market's response to our specialty melons, heirloom tomatoes, and select lines of greens. Working with market growers and visiting Bay Area markets like Ferry Plaza keep us on the pulse of the organic gourmet.

Organic consumers want the best. They expect exceptional flavor, beautiful food, and diversity in their diet. The organic grower is constantly challenged to meet this demand with novel varieties and the best selections, while maintaining an ever-increasing level of quality. Staying ahead of pests and weeds, while offering aesthetically pleasing produce starts with identifying the finest varieties that perform optimally in organic growing conditions.

We look forward to keeping you updated as this summer's on-farm trials continue.

From the field,
Micaela Colley, Seeds of Change Bulk Seed Field Rep